One of the most well-known (and dangerous) beaches in Hawaii is Sandy Beach (also called Sandys) on Oahu.
When I was there last week, the waves were firing. One must be aware of all conditions when a deep water swell folds over a shallow bottom. Quick reflexes and good situational awareness are the keys to having a good (and safe) time. There are usually few willing bodysurfers in the water, mostly locals, which makes it feel more risky. Waves like this are so dangerous that you usually end up with maybe one or two insane rides at the most. I know I passed on maybe 99 percent of the waves I encountered at Sandy's on this trip. I was just too scared to catch them.
Anyway, it was good to get back to the beach where I spent a lot of time when I was a teennager.