Friday, April 24, 2026

Love for Surfing

Here are today's steps:

And here's me after my run: 

Then here's me 55 years ago. 

Surfing has always been in my blood. Especially the South Shore, with its iconic views of Diamond Head and its longboard, friendly atmosphere. The water is warm, the beach is packed with varied breaks like Kuhio's and Publics, and the waves are characterized by long-period energy that can produce "freight train" style waves even when they look small. 

I can't wait for August. 

Mahalo for this opportunity to share with you my love for Hawaii!