Wednesday, October 18, 2023

The Pipe Is Baaaaack!

Guess what's breaking again? 

Pipe is my second favorite spot on the North Shore. My favorite is right next to it -- Pupukea. Pipeline is best suited for goofy-footers (right leg forward on the board) and I am a regular-footer. But nonetheless, the Pipe has an amazing break -- "break" being a term that can also apply to what can happen to your board (one of my boards broke in half at Pipe). 

Surfing the North Shore during the winter months was the dream of every 16-year old who grew up at Kailua Beach. In those days, the break wasn't very crowded. There was none of the territorialism you find today. And you could actually find a parking spot at Ehukai Beach Park. Why did the Lord allow me such opportunities as a teen? I'll never know, but I am thankful.