At 16 I can remember finding these kinds of deserted conditions on the North Shore at Pupukea -- my favorite break.
I kid you not. We got there before sunrise and had the entire break to ourselves. I will never forget days like that back in the 60s and 70s. Surfing was part of my blood while growing up in Hawaii.
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| Surfing at 19. |
It surpassed the "runner's high" any day. The feel of the water, the smell of the wax, the sight of the ocean, the exhilarating feeling of being hardwired to pursue the next set -- all these made being a surfer a primary identity. In fact, there's even a Surfer's Bible. Did you know that?
In essence, surfing is not just a hobby. It's a full-body, life-changing experience that becomes a part of your daily experience.
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| Surfing at 72. |