On Kukio Beach in Waikiki, there's a 9-foot statue that stands with open arms to greet visitors. It's the Duke Paoa Kahanamoku statue. It sits right on the Waikiki beach boardwalk. I took this video on August 10, 2026.
The statue emphasizes the Duke's immense role in globalizing the sport of surfing.
Today surfing is such a popular sport because it combines the thrill of harnessing the power of the ocean with the laid back style of the surfing community. Surfers enjoy an often spiritual bond with the ocean. In my opinion, surfing and golf are the two most difficult sports to become really good at.
People surf for all kinds of reasons. I've been surfing for 64 years. I started in Hawaii, them I surfed in California for 27 years. Nowadays I occasionally get to catch a few waves at Virginia Beach. The waves used to be in my front yard literally. I surfed almost daily on some of the most beautiful stretches of the Pacific coast on Oahu. It was always fun and extremely joyful. The "point" for me is the connection to the now. I can be fully engaged in the moment and part of it. The failed drops. The stinging in the eyes. The successful turns. Getting to drop in on a wave every couple of minutes. Surfing gives me a dopamine high like nothing else, not even marathoning. Just think: A wave that travelled many miles just for my enjoyment. It's a beautiful thing.
I love surfing and have done it for over 6 decades. When the water is like glass and the waves are peeling perfectly, all is well with the world. It's like climbing a tall mountain and then savoring a cup of delicious coffee at the peak. There's a lot of paddling and waiting, but you get this one moment to appreciate what you accomplished. Surfing always clears my head. I like the no phone, no kids, no distractions atmosphere.
Life has changed for me dramatically over the years, but the one constant has been surfing. It has kept me sane through career changes, widowerhood, and health issues. Every time I felt overwhelmed I had this sport. I broke my rib when I was surfing in my teens at Pipeline. Today that rib acts up whenever I paddle out. But who cares? I still love to go out and catch a wave.
I never regret a surfing trip to Hawaii. Once in a blue moon, when I truly catch a great wave, that makes it all worthwhile. It's the best way I could ever think to get outside and exercise. Much less stressful and cheaper than going to a gym!
