I was here at Panic Point not 9 days ago.
This is one of the greatest waves you can surf on the South Shore of Oahu. I was here when I was 19.
And I was here this summer at the age of 74.
Staying active for a lifetime is an act of faith. It starts with a single step and continues with each step after that. These moments are yours to keep and yours to share with your grandkids and great-grandkids. These moments, no matter how big or small, will distinguish you as a surfer.