A person who loves the ocean more than the land is called a thalassophile, a "sea lover." The word reflects a profound love of and a deep emotional pull toward the ocean. Science shows that our brains are wired to feel calm and happy near the ocean. The noise and stress of life on land fade away by the waves. The endless horizon reminds you of just how big and vast your God is. The Bible shows us that God has the power both to raise and quiet the crashing waves. The New Testament uses images of rolling waves to warn against doubt.
My elementary school was called Kainalu. Kainalu means "Sea wave." My intermediate and high schools were called Kailua. Kailua means "two seas." My high school nickname was the "Kailua Surfriders."
In the 1960s, everyone who grew up on Oahu surfed. Nobody taught us how. You just, well, surfed. Every day there were waves in Kailua. Not always the biggest. And sometimes very choppy. But the shorebreak was your constant companion growing up.
Not to mention the surf at Flat Island or the Mokulua Islands.
Lord willing, when my flight from Dallas lands in Honolulu next Tuesday at noon, it won't take me more than an hour to return to the ocean. I plan to start out surfing at Waikiki, at a place called Publics.
This section of Waikiki is far away from Canoes, where surfing lessons are given. Publics has a very nice left.
Then I'll drive home to Kailua and catch a few waves before grabbing something to eat and retiring to bed. I'll be very tired by then. (Hawaii is 6 hours behind Virginia). Incidentally, here's today's surf report from Waikiki and Kailua.
The Windward Side is actually breaking bigger than the South Shore today. Nice.
6-8 feet at Kailua is just about right.
I'm sorry if you find this boring. I don't blame you. I love talking about my journey and the duality of my life between Hawaii and the Mainland. I am connected to both places. Oahu is a place that reconnects me to the core of who I am. I love the smell of the beach. I love the sound of the ocean. I love the feel of sand between my toes. I love the breathtaking beauty of it all. I don't suppose that will ever change.
Are you a thalassophile? Where is your connected place? Then go back. Connect and recharge. More than likely, it will help you take on the world again.