I'm 74. Lord willing, this week I will be surfing in Waikiki, still enjoying the therapeutic benefits of surfing. My advice is to stay on the shortest board for as long a possible. Keep surfing good waves that require duck diving. Embrace the health benefits of surfing. This trip to Oahu I am thinking about hiring a photographer to get some pics for my grandkids who are always asking to see me out in the waves. Older surfers listen to their bodies. They respect their joints, and they respect sleep and nutrition as key components of their performance. I will never tire of saying this: Constantly challenge your body and your mind. This is why we surfers want to ride waves until the day we die. Surfing has completely transformed the way I see myself. I really hope to inspire you to give yourself a chance to do the same, no matter what activity you are currently planning in front of you not to do it. Age is irrelevant. Surfing is not just for the young, the fearless. You are never too old to learn how to surf.
