Does anyone else out there surf? I've been a surfer since I was a kid, and at 72 it's one thing I can still do. Some of my best days at the beach happened in June when I surfed Waikiki with a light wind blowing from the east and the waves just right for riding. I'm now waiting for a swell to arrive at Virginia Beach. I don't care if the waves aren't much over 2 feet. Okay, that's a bit hyperbolic. But beggars can't be too picky. Here's the thing. It takes me over 3 hours to drive to the beach. In traffic. However, if there's even a small chance there are waves in VB this week, I'm going. The truth is, I'm not too bright sometimes. One dumb thing I do is to act impulsively. But I miss the ocean and I will make any excuse to walk in the sand and wax down my board.
All this to say, people should not have to apologize for finding joy in sports. Spectating should not become a substitute for the actual experience. Life should not be experienced second-hand. Surfing is a coming-of-age for the young, a renaissance for the adult, and -- thankfully -- a regeneration for the old.
Thank you, Lord, for the ocean.