Four weeks ago I was at this exact spot on the South Shore of Oahu. It's called Panic Point. This picture of me was taken at this spot 52 years ago.
Today, board surfing isn't allowed here any more. You can only body surf. But back in the day, I loved surfing here. Surfing is a unique sport. It's perhaps the only sport where you can harness pure natural energy (waves). When you think about it, it's absolutely mind-boggling that you can be riding waves that were generated thousands of miles away. When I'm in the water I think of nothing other than the wave and it is totally mind-clearing. This picture was taken with some friends. There's nothing better than a fun surfing session with people you enjoy. I hope to surf until I'm physically incapable. It's the only place where I feel completely free to do whatever I want however I want to.